11-4-23 Joppolo to Agrigento

 The hike:

The castle in Joppolo.

My lovely host arrived early to the apartment with fresh croissants and bread.  I had been up since 6:00 AM, and had already eaten but I couldn’t refuse his hospitality.  He made me a cup of espresso, my third that morning, and I ate the croissant that was stuffed with about 1/3 cup of marmalade.  I knew I would burn every calorie.  

I wanted to enjoy this time with him and I also was antsy to get going. (3 espressos) We departed shortly and he drove by the panorama, where I could look back to Cammarata far in the distance and Sutera a bit closer.  All that way I had come.

Nice open countryside I have come to love so much.

Looking back to Jappolo.

The trail was a combination of quiet paved roads and dirt tracks, which is like most of what I’ve walked. The air was crisp and clean from a rain the night before .  The ocean was near.  I was heading down to the river for my first adventure of the day.

Heading to the low point, the river.

At the river, the trail was a dirt road that was saturated by last night’s rain.  The silty clay stuck to the soles of my boots three inches thick.  It was literally hard to lift my feet.  I kept scraping it off, but two steps later it was there again. 

Several hundred meters on the trail became paved.  Thank heck!  I walked by a big water treatment plant, across a highway to another quiet road. 

Sicily has a garbage problem. This was the worst I’d seen.  Along with household garbage was medical garbage as well.

I was getting close to Agrigento.  I had several scary dog encounters along here.  But I wasn’t there yet.

On my GPX map there was a short trail across the river to the lower end of Agrigento.  I could see the red and white markings on poles down the hill from the roadway.  The path was blocked by wire. The road up the hill on the far side was gated. Huh?  Then I noticed more red and white trail markings along the road in front of me. I looked on my map and I knew I was in for a detour.

I had to remind myself that this journey isn’t instant.  I remembered to look at the scenery.  

I had about a 2 mile detour around to a bridge across the river, then I entered a eucalyptus forest. 

Ham, cheese and spinach bread thing for lunch.  

I was tired, the rest of the way was up the hill through the trees then up through some steps leading into town. I could literally feel the food give me energy.  

Looking across the river to where I was before the detour.

Entering Agrigento.

From this point, I could see the Mediterranean, I was on the other side.  Thank god for GPX maps as I made my way up narrow maze like stairs and streets .  There was a welcoming committee as well.

This Cathedral is the official end of the Camino.

I have two full days to explore the town and to visit the Valley of the Temples, right below the town.

My reaction to the Camino.  

I had an amazing adventure, met some great people, enjoyed the help and hospitality of my many hosts, and got across the island.  For me, a complete success.  

So what if I didn’t touch every KM on the trail.  I accept I am not 50 years old anymore.  I hiked over 90 miles in 11 days, and saw countryside that most visitors would never see. Is there just a hint of disappointment that I didn’t finish all the segments?  Yes! Can I learn a lesson from the Camino to accept and be grateful? Yes! 

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